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"Surmounting the Chola Mountain Of Life"
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I arrived at
the town of Seda. Next to the road there was a white Stupa,
and on the right side of it there were numerous very tall
stupas made with praying flags. People worshiping the heavenly
god and searching for the higher spiritual realm have kept
adding new flags on top of these stupas. Looking at these
stupas in this empty land I felt like I was in a totally different
world. Suddenly I saw a light purplish color turned to red
rose from the bottom of my pupil. I realized that if I continue
to enjoy this beautiful scene, I could be snow blinded, and
I didn't have any sunglass with me. However, I didn't want
to close my eyes and miss out this mysterious beauty. My camera
was broken in Wongda Town, this really chagrined me. I had
tried to remove the battery and place it back and turned it
on and off numerous times but still couldn't get it to work.
I remember
that twenty years ago Aya's (Cao's ex-wife, the author of "Tao") camera stalled when she arrived to Tibet
too. This place was quiet to the point that it seemed like
one could hear the sound of snow hitting the ground. The
town was like it had always been in the hibernating situation.
Once entered the town, the streets were empty, one couldn't
even see tire marks on the road. It was totally a vacant
city. After all I had finally heard the sound of a window
curtain rolling up. I approach to ask the lady through the
door where I could buy another camera. She couldn't understand
Chinese. After a long time attempting to communicate with
her I had failed and had to give up.
At
this time, the county secretary who was referred by the
local governor contacted me, inviting me to their district
for dinner. By the time I arrived, I saw a couple of Landcruisers
parked in front of
the entrance. I recognized that they were the ones that I
had seen earlier. I found out they were just back from
a snow disaster area. After entering the house I saw secretary
Tsu in a room meeting with many others. The office director
went to notify secretary Tsu of my coming, however, I saw
across the door that everyone was busy and I didn't want to
interrupt them, so I stayed at the door and chatted with Yon
Cha. Yon Cha was known through a mutual friend and he was
the head of the Seda Hospital. He is a very nice guy. It is
said that he had helped so many poor people that once he got
married out of town and didn't tell anyone here, and by the
time he returned, people waited in front of his house and
complained and wanted to give him a proper wedding. The first
sight of Yon Cha gave me an impression of a moderate person.
I told him what happen on my way here and asked him where
I could buy a camera. He said, "Sedaa doesn't have it.
The hospital has one, but someone took it with him to the
village. My friend has one, but not sure if it would meet
your professional standard." To me, the most important
thing now is to quickly find a camera and document what I
have seen and felt. Those impressions could be gone in a split
second. Seda is very high above sealevel but fairly flat.
With the cover of the snow it was beautiful and holy. The
stupas made by praying flags were like towers connecting to
the heavenly kingdom. With the rhythm of flags flying up and
down in the wind, one could feel his deepest pray being conveyed
to heaven. One could feel his soul light as feather and thin
like a snowflake flying to heaven with the wind and snow.
Every second was different than a second before. The only
thing I wanted to do was to record these with a camera, as
if I wanted to catch the tail of the wind in the air and incorporate
these messages and souls into my canvas. I wanted to express
what I had felt in this silver and quiet world, express what
had touched me, what I was preying to the endless universe...
"Can
we find it now?" I asked Yon Cha. "Let me try." he said. Yon Cha phoned his friend and asked him to bring
the camera to his house, then he invited me to his house to
wait. In this remote place, material life standard is hard
for one to imagine. This reminded me of the time when I just
arrived at Tibet. No matter if it was in the dorms of Tibet
University or in the wilderness, what I had encountered were
almost the same, made me feel so close to my past.
Yon
Cha opened the broken door make of leather, and on the right
side there was his biggest asset: a pile of cow's waste. The
smell was very familiar, it felt like I was dreaming about
twenty years earlier when I was in Tibet: lack of material
things, desire of warmth... all came back to me.
Yon
Cha took out some bacon he brought from his hometown and asked
me to stay for dinner. His friend brought the camera over.
It's a camera with very low resolution, but it was better
than nothing. He made stir fry vegetable with the bacon with
no seasonings but a sprinkle of salts. However, once I tasted
it I felt that I hadn't eaten something this great in so many
years. I have three large bowls of rice with it.
The
phone rang and it was secretary Tsu saying that he just finished
his business and invited me over for dinner. Even though I
was already full, I felt hard to refuse so I went. Waiting
in front of the door was a tall man with a exhausted look
on his face. It turns out that he was secretary Tsu. I remembered
that when I was watching TV in Yon Cha's house I saw a group
of people passing out food, money, tents and other goods to
the victims of the snow disaster area, from one place to another
non-stop. It was secretary Tsu and his team, and they had
just finished their job. This gained my respect to him. The
moment I got off the car I was light headed all the time,
this was in Tibet: the black river, A Li, Gaize, Ritu.......Those
are places no one wanted to go because they were no man's
land. The nature conditions are too harsh to the point that
is beyond many people's imagination. Secretary Tsu's meal
wasn't as good as Yon Cha's and certainly couldn't compare
with any regular meal in the inland. When I first went back
to China I heard a few names that were named by the party
as role models for the party members. As I saw secretary Tsu,
I thought he was probably the closest and the best role model.
After dinner, I heard that they had to rush to other places,
people around him were in and out covered with snow... I didn't
want to distract them so I went out to take pictures of the
pray flags. At the time the sun had melted the snow on the
flags, leaving a completely different sensation.
I
couldn't sleep at night and become short of breath. I remember
that there was a tall tank on the table. It should be oxygen
tank. This was very new to me. When I was in Tibet I had never
thought of using these kinds of thing. The development is
certainly quick here. I didn't know how to use it. When I
twist the cap something shot out and almost hit my eyes. It
seems that there was certainly oxygen inside so I used it
to help me to sleep. It only felt like a short nap and I was
wakened by the engine noise that came from the Landcruiser
outside. They went out again. I couldn't fall back to sleep
anymore so I decided to visit a famous monastery in the area.
Yon Cha advised me not to go because it was dangerous, but
I insisted so he went with me in case anything happened he
could help.
On our way to the monastery, we were surrounded by the white
field. All the houses were covered by snow except for the
roofs sticking out. The mountain road was very slippery so
it was hard to drive. Gradually there were houses started
to appear in the valley, more and more. It was very strange
to see so many houses built long the canyon in the middle
of nowhere and they were all Tibetan style building. In the
middle of the hill look somewhat like on the moon, there was
a monastery with golden roof bathed under the sunlight. It
was so heavenly.
When
I was ready to leave Seda and go to Dege to get the paper,
Yon Cha and his friends all advised me not to go because it
was snowing very heavily, at this condition it was impossible
to I drive across the Chola Mountain because Chola Mountain
has extremely high altitude.